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Before I share with you some knowledge I have on growing roses, lets clear up some
misconceptions. First, not everyone can successfully grow roses. Second, they are not simple
and easy to grow and care for. Third, it is not an inexpensive hobby if you are interested in
really getting into it. But I can assure you of this: if you follow the guidance I provide you in
this article, your chances of growing the most beautiful roses you have ever seen are very good.
Where in your yard do you plant roses? Be very careful here. Roses must have full sun - at
least 6 hours a day. If they are planted in shade or partial shade, they will be lanky, sparse and
generally unhealthy. The more sun they get, the better they like it. Another thing to consider is
root competition. Roses don't like competing shrubbery or trees that will deprive them of their
needed nutrients. Don't plant roses near either one, and in the case of trees, 25 to 30 feet is
close enough. Another thing roses don't like is wet feet, so make sure your location has good
natural drainage.
Because of the critical nature of drainage requirements, I prefer raised or elevated rose beds.
You can achieve this with railroad ties (old ones without the creosote coating), landscape
timbers, treated 2 X 8 planks stood on their edge, bricks, cinder blocks or just about anything
your imagination can dream up. Allow 2 feet from the edge of the bed to rose bush, and from
30 to 36 inches between bushes. I don't recommend group plantings of more than two deep
because of the accessibility need. Using theses guidelines, you should be able to lay out the
design of your bed. Next comes excavation. Remove the top 12 inches of topsoil and set aside,
removing any grass or roots. Combine this with equal parts of sphagnum peat moss and perlite,
mix well and return mixture to the rose bed. Broadcast about 5 pounds of Super Phosphate and
2 pounds of agricultural sulphur on the top of the bed for every 100 square feet of rose bed and
stir it in with a garden hoe. Hopefully, you were able to do this several weeks in advance of your
planting, because the mixture needs to settle. If no, water your bed down thoroughly with
garden hose several days in a row before planting your roses.
The proper time to plant bare root roses is from mid-February to mid-March. Dig a hole in your
rose bed about 12 inches by 12 inches. Put two tablespoons of Super Phosphate in the bottom
of your hole, mix the removed soil with an equal part of sphagnum pet moss and refill the to half
of its depth and water thoroughly. After the water has drained, add enough additional fill mixture
to build an inverted cone the total depth of hole. Carefully place the bare root plant over the
cone, spreading out the roots as best you can without damaging the.. Holding the plant in place,
press down into the cone until the bud union is even with the soil level. Add soil mixture,
tamping gently until only about 2 inches remains unfilled, then water again. After this drains
finish filling the hole with our mixture and continue pulling the soil mixture up around the canes
until you have something resembling a tee pee. This will protect the plant form freezes, and
should be carefully removed back to ground lever on April 1 st, or when danger of killing freeze
is bone.
Potted roses generally are not dormant so should not be planted until April 1st or later. Excavate
the hole in the same manner as above, and plant the bush, taking care to keep as much of the
potted soil intact around the roots as possible. The inverted cone described above is not
applicable with potted plants, because you need to take great care to keep the soil around your
potted plant's roots intact as much as possible. Fill up your hole with the soil mixture previously
described, but fill it to the level necessary for the plant's bud union to be even with the rosebud
soil level when you pace the potted plant in the hole. Water in well, and finish filling the hole
with your mixture.
In central Oklahoma, we prune around April 1st or when all danger of a killing frost or freeze is
over. The exception to this is Climbing Roses. This type blooms on last year's wood, so wait to
prune them after they have had their spring bloom. On all the remaining types of roses, perform
the following: trim all dead canes from the plant, visualize an upside-down spider, and get
started with hand lopers and a key-hole saw. Remove about half the length of the canes (or
more if they are not alive), cutting them with a sharp set of lopers or hand shears with a slight
angle into the center of the plant. Your cuts should be just above and outside budeye (about 1/4
inch) and should be sealed with an application of Elmer's glue or plant shellac. You should also
remove all twiggy growth and any canes smaller than a pencil. Last rule: use good judgment.
Don't hack good canes to the ground just because they are small if that's all you plant has!
You start spraying your roses when you prune, continuing until the first frost in the fall, and
performing this duty every 7-10 days without fail. What are you spraying for? Blackspot. This
fungal disease of roses is the biggest single complaint associated with roses and is usually
described by someone saying, "My roses were doing fine, then their leaves turned yellow and
dropped off." Use any one of a variety of chemicals that are available at many garden supply
stores. I prefer to use Ortho Funginex until Blackspot appears, then I go to Fore, Manzate,
Maneb or Dithane M-45. The Funginex is a liquid, the rest are powders. I don' use pesticides
until I have an infestation of critters that natural predators can't handle. Then I add Ortho
Orthene to my fungicide mixture. Always follow the instructions on the container for usage,
storage and disposal. Spraying every 7-10 days is a lot of time and trouble, but must be done if
you want healthy roses.
Feeding is next. For your newly planted roses, don't apply any commercial fertilizer to them
until the end of May. After that, same rules as others. As for the others, get yourself some
balanced fertilizer (10-20-10) and dig a shallow trench around the drip line of the rose bush
(about 1-2 inches deep). Spread about 1/2 cup of the fertilizer in the trench, cover with soil and
water in well. Do this when you prune, and then monthly through August. Don't use any
granular fertilizer after August. There are other additives and fertilizer methods, but I won't
complicate the process for you by addressing those.
I recommend you mulch your beds in June. This helps your soil retain moisture and keeps it
cooler during the summer months. Use about 3 inches of a good material such as alfalfa hay,
wheat straw, cottonseed hulls, pine bark mulch h, cypress mulch, pecan shells, just to name of
few. Don't use anything that has had defoliant contact. Most mulches break down over the
year, add organic matter to your soil, and need to be replaced each year.
Your roses need the equivalent of 2 inches of water a week during their growing season. Slow
watering, i.e., deep soaking, is what you do. How you do it varies according to your
preferences, Overhead watering is discouraged because of the fungal problems, but if you are
religious with your spraying program, you shouldn't have any problems. Don't let your rosebeds
dry out. Nothing kills a healthy bush like dry roots.
Good luck and good roses!
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| Disclaimer: While the advice and information contained in this web page is believed to be true and correct, neither the authors nor board members can accept any legal responsibility for any errors or omissions that may have been made. The Oklahoma Rose Society makes no warranty, expressed or implied with respect to the material contained herein |
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