In most of the United States, early spring when the soil becomes workable and mild temperatures
make working outside easier is the best time to plant roses. Late autumn is also a good time to
plant roses. Although roses will grow almost anywhere, they perform much better in some
locations than in others. They can be planted in beds or as individual bushes. To do their best,
sugar and protein they require to produce those sturdy canes and beautiful flowers. Roses also
need a location that is well drained. While they require a great deal of water, a wet, water-logged
soil will retard their growth, if not outright kill them. Digging deep planting holes usually provides
adequate drainage. Sometimes installing raised beds helps in low-lying areas. Sometimes it may be
necessary for the very serious Rosarians to install some sort of tile drainage system in the yard,
which, if the drainage is that bad, probably should have been done long ago anyway. But for the
most part, a well-prepared hole, deeply dug, will provide an adequately drained environment for the
roots. It is important that bare root roses be moist and not be allowed to dry out. Therefore, as
soon as a shipment of bare root roses is received from the nursery the package should be opened
and the bushes soaked in water for several hours prior to planting. The plants are dormant, they
growing bush. In a way they are naturally anesthetized (maybe to say that they are hibernating
would be a better analogy). So the soaking will not harm them. On the contrary, it will assure
that they are well hydrated for planting. For bare root or potted roses, planting starts out the same.
Locate a spot that receives a reasonable amount of daily sunshine and has good drainage. It is
very convenient to have prepared the soil and dug the holes sometime during the previous fall. It
makes spring planting much easier, but it is not absolutely necessary. Dig a hole about 18 inches
area for good drainage. The chances are the soil from the bottom of the hole will be heavy clay.
Rose roots thrive and do their best in a light and airy clay that has been modified by the addition of
a lot organic matter, such as peat moss, cow manure or compost. Toss away the clay stuff that
came from the bottom third of the remainder with a comparable volume of any of these organics.
If the soil is almost all a very heavy clay, add five or six handfuls of gypsum. Gypsum mixed in a
clay soil helps break it up, keep it porous, and lets the organics do their job. To plant a bare root
rose, the roots should be trimmed. With pruning shears remove any broken roots and trim the
roots to a length that will conveniently, with ample room on all sides, fit into the hole. Roots 8 to
10 inches long are sufficient. Do not try to stuff 2 feet of roots into the hole by scrapping them in
a spiral. Properly pruned roots will soon sprout plenty of new rootlets as the bush becomes
established. Start refilling the hole with the soil mixture. Hold the rose bush in the hole so that
the bud union (the swelling from which the canes project upward and from which the roots grow
downward) is at or just an inch or two above the ground level. Continue to fill the hole with the
soil mixture in and around the roots. At this point it is a good idea to toss a handful of super
phosphate fertilizer or bone meal into the hole and mix it with the soil that will immediately
surround the roots. This is the only semblance of fertilizer that need be added during the planting
process. Any other fertilization should wait until the bushes are established as evidenced by
sprouting leaves and new canes. The shot of phosphorus given at planting time stimulates root
growth, a newly planted rosebush's most immediate task, plus phosphorus moves slowly through
the soil. Continue to add soil mixture, keeping the bud union at a level consistent with the
hardiness zone in which you live. Sometimes it may be at ground level, well above ground in
warmer climates, or well below the surface in colder climates. Use the fingers of your gloved
hands to poke the soil in and around the roots. When the hole is about 7/8 filled, water it well with
a couple gallons of water. This will not only moisten the roots but will help seat the soil particles
around them. The water will no doubt cause the soil in the hole to settle a bit after it has drained
away. When the water is gone, complete the hole-filling job with the rest of the soil. Do not
compress the soil be stomping on the fill dirt. Because of all of the organic mater that was added
there should be enough left over to mound up over the canes to a height of at least 6 inches. The
soil mound, which should be gradually removed after two to three weeks, will protect the newly
planted bush while it begins to establish a new root system and will do the all-important task of
keeping the bush from drying out.
Provided by the American Rose Society
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