Old Garden Rose in a Vase provided by Lilian Perry.
Fertilizing Roses!
Nitrogen (N) Stimulates growth, strong canes, blooms, dark foliage.
Potassium (K) Promotes root growth, vigor, and bloom color.
Calcium (Ca) Holds cell walls together and promotes stability and early growth.
Magnesium (Mg) Provides chlorophyll, the green in all plants.
Phosphorus (P) Stimulates root growth, big blooms, winter hardiness.
Sulfur (S) Essential organic compounds of proteins and vitamins.
Iron: (Fe) Promotes dark green leaves and protects from heat damage.

Chemical Fertilizers
Commercial fertilizers are listed by their percentage of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium.  Most
commercial fertilizers contain the three main nutrient N:P:K on the label, such as 10-20-10.  
Nitrogen is 10 percent, phosphorus is 20 percent and potassium is 10 percent.  Roses should
always be heavily watered before and after an application of chemical fertilizers.  Never apply
fertilizer to dry soil.

Slow Release Fertilizers
There are three types of slow release fertilizers.  The first are materials that dissolve very slowly,
such as sulfur.  The second type of slow release fertilizer is one that requires action by soil
microorganisms to release the fertilizer in usable form.  The third type is once or twice a year
fertilizers.  Slow release fertilizers have fertilizer pellets coated with varying thicknesses of sulfur
or resins. Slow release fertilizers time to release can range from immediate to 9 months depending
on the coating.  They also reduce the chances of fertilizer burn.

Water Soluble Fertilizers
As indicated by the name, these are fertilizers in a form that will dissolve in solution.  Mixed with
water, the solution can be sprayed on the foliage (foliar feeding) or used as a soil drench.  The
usual recommendation for roses is 20-20-20.  A water soluble fertilizer can be used as an addition
to a complete fertilizing program.  It makes a good quick tonic for a quick pick-me-up for the
plants and as a supplemental feeding during a rainy spell.  Water-soluble fertilizers may be more
suitable for conatiner grown plants than a granular fertilizer.  As always, do not over fertilize -
follow the directions on the label.

Organic Fertilizers
Organic fertilizers are those which come from once-living organisms.  They can range from animal
waste (manure) to ground up organisms (fish emulsion) to former plant materials (compost).  
All organic fertilizers have several characteristics in common:
1.  They tend to be very low in nutrient content.  The nutrients tend to be in slow release form,
requiring biological action from the soil to release the nutrients.  
2.  They tend not to release nutrients unless the soil is warm because the required biological action
requires the warmth.  All organic fertilizers tend to have high levels of carbon to nitrogen, which
leads to more break down time needed.
3.  Organic fertilizers (or Mulches) slowly add to the level of humus in the soil.

Commonly used Organic Materials:
Cottonseed Meal
- used to lower pH acidic soil.
Blood Meal - dried, powdered blood, supplies nitrogen and iron.
Alfalfa Meal - best organic soil additive, contains hormones that stimulate growth.
Fish Emulsion - well rounded fertilizer, good source of nitrogen.
Manure - best used as soil conditioners.
Sewer Sludge - granular from, long lasting and non-burning fertilzer.

A major difference between chemical fertilizers and organic fertilizers is the long-term effect on the
condition of the soil.  Constant use of chemical fertilizers without adding organic material to the
soil either as fertilizer or as mulch will deteriorate the soil structure and overall health of the soil.  
Add top mulch to avoid over using the chemical fertilizers.

This may help you decide what your roses need:
NITROGEN

Low in:  Reduced growth with reduced leaf size
Low in:  Stems weak and spindly.
Low in:  Small flowers.
Low in:  Flowers lighter in color.
To much:  Younger plant parts are light in color.
To much:  Buds fail to develop after cutting.
To much:  Plant hardening.
To much:  Foliage is increased in size and blooms smaller than
normal.
POTASSIUM
Low in:  Young shoots become hardened and stunted.
Low in:  Margins become yellow then turn brown-leaves
sometime become purple.
Low in:  Flower buds may be distorted.
To much:  Plant turns light green to yellow.
To much:  Root loss.
To much:  Wilting of young shoots.
MAGNESIUM
Low in:  Reduction in leaf size.
Low in:  Yellow between veins on leaves.
Low in:  Plants are stunted with large, necrotic white areas on
both sides of leaves.
Low in:  Large leaves edges may cup down.
To much:  Small black spots on older leaves.
To much:  May also cause iron deficiency symptoms.
IRON
Low in:  Pale light green young leaves.
Low in:  Interveinal areas yellow.
To much:  Leaves may have black edges.
Before assuming your rose is low or high in the fertilizers.  You must consider the
conditions may be affected by weather, water and your spraying program.

1. Weather - Hot and dry weather will cause your plant to show wilting, burned leaf edges.  
Water is the solution.
2.
 Water - To much water causes the rose to have root rot and black spot (without a spraying
program for fungus).  Not enough water will cause the rose bush to look wilted, new leaves will
look burned before opening, flowers will turn black or brown before fully open.
3.
 Spraying - A common symptom that is misdiagnosed is damage from spray burn.  Some
pesticides will cause damage naturally or if not used properly.  Do not spray roses in the middle of
a hot day.  Spray in the early morning during the wet season and spray in the early evening during
the dry season.
To Much Water Causes Yellow Leaves
To Much Water Turns
Leaves Yellow
Photo provided by Gail
Beasley
Damp Cold Nights Causes Balling
Damp Cold Nights
Causes Balling
Photo provided by Gail
Beasley
Hard Water Residue
Hard Water Residue is
sometimes mistaken
for Powdery Mildew
Photo provided by Gail
Beasley
Tennessee Waltz
Oklahoma Rose Society
Disclaimer:   While the advice and information contained in this web page is believed to be true and correct, neither the authors nor board members
can accept any legal responsibility for any errors or omissions that may have been made. The Oklahoma Rose Society makes no warranty,  
expressed or implied with respect to the material contained herein